what memory does




a man moves across the shoreline. Beyond break

his body pushes against the water surrounding him, facing

horizon. It feels like I am in on the ritual. 

The crackling fire in the inn smelled like the central room 

of a grandmother-in-law’s three-story home in Paro Town. Above  

a bare ground floor covered in pine needles, where cattle slept.

Above the second-story feed and grain storage, up a steep 

red-wooden ladder, we sit on a rug around a stove and drink 

suja and puffed rice with the matriarch while a young boy learns english 

from cartoons on television. The smoke is dressed in juniper, 

rhododendron, clove, cardamom. We roll a soccer ball back and forth 

and laugh. A half hour before this, a farmer cut my small perfect sea of rice 

with a sharpened sickle. From where we sat on the dirt road, 

rain fell in perfect rippling circles atop the flooded paddy. By now, 

crunchy kernels soggy with sweet tea touch my lips

and tongue like a snow-coated pine mountainside 

framed by wind-shredded prayer flags. By now, he has walked out of the 

waves and is standing on shore.